Gears

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There is a very good reason why I am Blogging about Gears. Many people have come to me with different gear habits, a lot of which are incorrect. I’m including questions that pop up regularly when people come to me first.

Below are things that can be done but, gears are there for a reason as each gear has an appropriate speed, use the gears correctly. Change down at appropriate speeds. It takes practice to achieve this skill. I have seen many arguments between drivers and the gear leavers.  And heard sounds of grinding and crunching of the gear box.  Gear changing when done correctly should be smooth and seamless as opposed to jerking and revving.

Q. Can I stop in fourth gear
A. No. This practice should only be done if you happen to be in fourth gear and need to do an emergency stop. All rules regarding mirrors and gears must be ignored when stopping in an emergency.

Q. Can I block change (skip gears) going from 4th to 2nd?
A. Yes, it is perfectly safe to change from 4th to 2nd gear. However, appropriate braking must be done before changing to 2nd gear. When done correctly, you should not be able to tell you have changed gear.

Why does the car jerk when I'm changing down gear?
This will happen when your vehicle is moving too fast for the gear you are changing down to.  To correct this you must brake more before changing down.  Many people go straight to the clutch when changing down gear which is incorrect.  You must take the speed out of the car first bringing it to the correct speed for the gear you are going to select and only then do you go for the clutch and select the lower gear.

Why does the car jerk when I'm changing up in gear?
This will happen when your foot goes on the accelerator too heavily.  Remember you only want to touch the accelerator to hold the speed you have built up before you changed up the gear.

Q. Can I block change from other gears?
A.  You can go from 3rd to 1st and this, is actually easier to show someone rather than to explain in text form.  This is a good way of getting out of the habit of coasting also. Remember there is only one way to do this correctly – it should only be done just before bringing your vehicle to a halt.  As you near the point where you have to stop and are in 3rd gear just start braking and as you reach your stop press down on the clutch and go to 1st but keep your foot down on the clutch as you continue to brake.  However, it is best practice use your gears and to go to 2nd gear when you have the time and distance to do so.  (As I covered in my Blog on Coasting, there is no such thing as coasting in 1st gear or reverse as the speed of 1st and reverse although slow can be too fast when manoeuvring around tight space)

Key Words to gear changing: Smooth and Seamless

How to reverse into a parking bay

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Reversing into a parking bay on the left There are a couple of methods to do this procedure. (As with any manoeuvre, constant observation throughout is needed)

Method A 

Indicate left and use mirrors as you would when stopping on the left. Position your vehicle about two metres out from the parking spaces on your left Drive past the parking bay you intend to use (Bay 1) so that the back of your car is opposite the centre of Bay 2. Another view point that you can use is, make sure your left side mirror is opposite the centre of Bay 3.

Preparation – Choose reverse gear
Observation – Check your way is clear via mirrors, blindspots and looking around.
Manoeuvre - Move vehicle slowly and bring steering quickly to left lock. When you are in the opening of the space, this is the time to start to straighten the steering. Check around constantly as you manoeuvre back into the space referring to side mirrors to accurately position your vehicle in the centre of the bay.

(To park in a Bay on the right, all the above are the same except rather than indicating left you must indicate right as you need to position your vehicle about two metres from the spaces on your right. Remember you to make sure your way is clear before moving over to the right.)


Method B 

Indicate left to let following traffic know that you intend to park.
Stop your vehicle outside the opening of the Bay you intend to park in. Signal right and do observation and mirrors as you would any time you move off. 

Move vehicle slowly and steer quickly locking to the right. Straighten just before stopping as you would doing a turnabout Steer to the left to bring vehicle back into your bay while referring to side mirrors for accurate parking in the centre of the space. Check around constantly as you go.

NOTE
For all manoeuvres such as the corner reverse, the turnabout, parallel parking or bay parking, remember other traffic has right of way and you are the obstruction so make sure your way is clear before you start. 

Why is it better to reverse into a parking space?
With front wheel drive vehicles the manoeuvrability is with the wheels at the front so reversing makes for accurate parking with less to-ing and fro-ing to position the vehicle. Plus if you drive into a space you will be reversing out into one way traffic or two-way traffic. For visibility it is much safer to drive out rather than reverse. If you have not centred your vehicle in the space, don’t just abandon it correct it.

The Turnabout - I'm facing the wrong way

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The Turn About or what used be called the three point turn, is a manoeuvre required in the driving test. Pupils have asked me what is the point of it and when would you use it. It is good to know how to handle your car going forward, backwards and doing a turn about. If you found yourself in a cul-de-sac wouldn’t it be great to know how to turn round safely. Firstly ask yourself, is where you intend doing the turn about safe and legal?

The key to doing the turnabout is to keep your speed slow and steer briskly. To keep your vehicle moving slowly this will involve clutch control. (Hold your foot on clutch just above the bite to make it move. If you want the vehicle to slow dip your foot briefly back down towards the floor on the clutch.) I can hear you say, keeping your foot on the clutch is coasting. Remember there is no such thing as coasting in 1st gear or reverse. The only time you need to signal during the manoeuvre is when signalling right as you leave the kerb to start the turnabout.

Before starting the turnabout it is important that you wait until the road is clear in both directions. Unlike the corner reverse where you can stop and give way to other road users, during the turnabout you are blocking the way of other traffic. Always give way to pedestrians who are nearby as in stopping what you are doing until they are a safe distance away.

Do your GOSH routine Gear, Observation, Signal, Handbrake & check your Blind Spot.

Move forward slowly turning your steering wheel briskly to the right, until you cannot turn it anymore.

When you are about a meter from the other side of the road, turn your steering back to the left as you continue to move forward. (This gives you a head start on the steering when you go into reverse.)

Look around you

Apply the handbrake if necessary, for example if the camber is significant. (See Camber on my Facebook Page Q & A Nov 30th, 2010)

Look around you

Put car in reverse gear move slowly and steer briskly to the left as far as it will go.

Look around you

When you’ve reached about a meter from the road edge behind you, turn your steering back to the right as you continue to reverse.
Apply handbrake if necessary.

Look around you

Put car in 1st gear and move forward slowly while steering briskly to the right and bring the car to a parked position on the left hand side of the road. This will complete the turnabout in three moves, but remember it is not necessary to complete the manoeuvre in three moves. It may take five or even seven depending on the size of vehicle and width of road.

Coasting in a vehicle

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Coasting, what is it?
Most people have heard of the term coasting, but some are unsure as to what it means. Coasting happens when the clutch is fully depressed (pushed down to the floor) while the car is moving. It becomes a bad habit for a lot of learner drivers. Coasting can happen when bringing the vehicle to a stop, before changing gear, after changing gear and driving in around small areas, such as car parks and more dangerously when cornering.

When you coast you are not in control of the vehicle, which is very dangerous. You are free wheeling, having stopped all contact between the engine and the wheels. Think back to the last time you free wheeled down hill on a bicycle. What happened? The bicycle picked up speed. If you were to drive down hill with your foot on the clutch the same thing would happen, you’d pick up speed. A low gear going down hill will keep the vehicle in check and prevent it from picking up speed, but if you were to put your foot on the clutch you’re are dis-engaging the gear and free wheeling.

Remember the clutch has three jobs to do
1. It makes the car move
2. It’s used to change gear.
3. It keeps the engine running when stopping in gear.


Tell tale signs that you coast.
Do you go for the clutch before the brake when bringing the vehicle to a stop?
Solution: Brake first then clutch just before you stop to prevent car from stalling.

When changing down gear are you on the clutch for a few seconds before selecting your gear?
Solution: Brake sufficiently for the gear selected, then clutch and change gear.

When you have just finished changing down gear is it more than 3 seconds before you release the clutch?
Solution: If you have braked sufficiently before you change your gear there is no need to linger long on the clutch.

Are you on the clutch constantly while going around an area like a car park?
Solution: Your vehicle can move extremely slowly in second gear it’s just a bad habit pressing on the clutch when moving. If you feel you will need to drive too slowly for second gear, brake sufficiently and then press the clutch and change to first gear for to do a creeping speed.

There are two exceptions, holding your foot on the clutch in first gear and reverse. These are not considered as coasting and come under the heading clutch control, which allows you to adjust the speed of your vehicle instantly.  For instance creeping along in slow moving traffic or reversing into a parking space.

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Motorway Driving

As with all my BlogSpots my tips do not cover every detail on the topic just the basics.  For example with this Blog I do not mention tunnels, toll plazas, breakdowns etc.

Who can not drive on the Motorway? 

L Drivers, vehicles that are slow and cannot exceed 50 km/h, vehicles under 50 cc, cyclists, pedestrians, invalid carriages – motorised wheelchairs and animals.

Is your vehicle fit for the motorway?

Check your fuel, water and coolant level.  Check tyre pressure and be sure that your vehicle is capable of doing the motorway speed.  Contrary to popular belief extra tyre pressure is not needed to drive on the motorway.

Plan your route.

Get your map out and find out what your route numbers are.  Find the the location of rest areas, service areas and lay-bys along your journey.  At the bottom of all maps there is a box which is called the Map Key.  This will let you know what each symbol means on the map.   For example, P = lay-bys (lay-bys will not have any facilities other than to park up safely), A blue line = Motorway, A green line = Dual carriageway etc.

What is the speed limit on the motorway?

120 km/h unless road markings or road signage state otherwise.

Joining the Motorway.

Entry to Motorway

Give way to traffic already on the motorway.  Make sure you build up your speed sufficiently while driving in the acceleration lane before you merge with the motorway traffic.  Signal right letting other traffic know of your intentions. 

The continuation of the acceleration lane is called a slip road/merging lane which is separated from the motorway by hatched markings (painted markings which separate traffic lanes)  Avoid crossing the continuous white line to merge with the motorway traffic.  Do mirror and blind spot checks as you look for a suitable gap to join the other traffic.

Once you are on the motorway
Continue driving straight ahead and never reverse or do a U turn.  Do not stop on the hard shoulder unless in the case of an emergency, directed by a guard or directed by emergency services.

What lane should I be in?

Lane 1 – (inside or left lane)  This is where you should always drive unless you are overtaking

Lane 2 – (centre lane)  Use this lane when overtaking.  Also it makes for safer driving if you can enter this lane safely when approaching a slip road where traffic will be merging from your left to join the motorway.

Lane 3 – (outside or right lane)  This lane should only be used if Lane 1 & 2 are moving queues and you need to overtake making room for merging traffic.

Always make your way back to Lane 1 allowing faster traffic from behind to overtake.

Reading the information signs on route along the motorway

Along the way you will see Motorway INFORMATION  SIGNS (blue rectangular signs with white letters) 

On these signs you will be given the number of the next exit (black square with white number) this is placed on the top left corner of the information sign.

The next piece of information on the sign is the number of the diverging lane.  This number will have an R before it for example R316

Another piece of information it gives is the number of the stretch of motorway ahead.  This number will always have the letter M before it.  For example M9

Leaving the motorway.

Know what exit you want to take.  If you pass your exit accidently continue on to the next exit.  On approach to your exit you will see three countdown markers. 

300 metres  -  200 metres  -  100 metres to next exit

Signal left but it is very important that you DO NOT reduce speed until you are in the deceleration lane as this would put following traffic in great danger.  Once in this lane reduce speed and look out for the new speed limit.

End of Motorway

NOTE:

Signals, mirrors and blind spots must be checked when lane changing as you would do with any change in direction.  Be alert and read the road well ahead.

On the day of your driving test

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Many of us can be nervous going into a test situation and it is no different for the driving test. Rather than saying to yourself “I have to pass this test”, say to yourself “This is my opportunity to prove that I am a confident and competent driver”.  Remember you are not there to prove that you are a perfect driver ... there is no such thing as a perfect driver.

Remember Examiners realise that test applicants may be nervous and part of their job is to do all that they can to help the pupil feel at ease. However do not take it personally that Examiner will not chat to you during your test. The reason for this is that it may influence the marking of the test.

Your entire test takes between 30 – 40 mins and the distance you will cover is 8 – 10km. I try to make sure a pupil has had at least three mock tests before the day of their test. Setting the tone as if it were the real driving test helps when it comes to the day of your test. It can help alleviate some nerves because you are familiar with how the test will be conducted.


ON THE DAY OF YOUR TEST:

Arrive at the test centre 10 – 15 mins early with your Learner Permit and your test confirmation letter.  Take a seat in the waiting area for your name to be called.

When your name is called you will be guided to the Examiners office. The Examiner will ask to see your Learner Permit to make sure that it is indeed yours, it’s valid and it has the correct category of vehicle for which you’ll be doing the test in.

You will be asked to read and sign a document stating that you are covered on the insurance of the vehicle that you will be using for your test and that the same vehicle is roadworthy. The Examiner will ask you theory questions and road signs. All of these are in your rules of the road book and driver theory book.

When back outside at your vehicle, you will be asked to open the bonnet. Below are some things you may be asked to locate. Also you may be asked how to check their levels and how to top them up. Your instructor will have covered this many times with you.  If you cannot locate where the steering fluid is your vehicle may be (EPAS)  Electrically Power Assisted Steering.

Brake Fluid
Power Steering Fluid
Engine Oil
Water (windscreen washer)
Coolant

The Examiner will then ask you to sit into your car as he/she checks that your discs are in date and details are correct on them. Other checks will be that you are displaying L plates on the front and rear of your vehicle and that they are the correct size, your tyre tread depth is above minimum and the general road worthiness of the vehicle. He/She will check your indicators and brake lights are working.  Many newer vehicles have a centre brake light as well as the left and right brake lights.  Even if the centre brake light bulb has blown on your way to the test centre, you will still be allowed sit your test as it is only necessary to have the left and right brake lights working.  Carry spare bulbs for all your car lights so you will never be stuck and ask your local mechanic to show you how to change them if unsure.  Always be familiar with the vehicle you are about to drive.

When the Examiner sits into the car he/she will ask a few questions on the controls. When asked about these things, your Examiner will expect you to answer without hesitation. They may be needed while out driving and this would not be the time for fumbling while your attention should be on the road ahead. Below are a few examples of questions that may be asked.

Where are your window wipers?
How would you demist your front, rear and side windows?
How and when to use the temperature controls?
What is the difference between the air flow controllers?
Where is the window washer for front window and rear window?
Where are the fog lights?
How do you turn on the air conditioning?
Where are you hazard lights?

From that point on your test is on your driving ability and how you put into practice the theory you know. Below you will see a Test Report Form which will show you what categories are covered during the test.

Gradings:
The Green boxes are Grade 1. MINOR FAULTS
These are minor faults and have no affect on your test.

The Blue boxes are Grade 2. MORE SERIOUS FAULTS
9 or more it is a fail.
6 in one category eg: Position it is a fail.
4 for the same fault eg: Position - position turning right it is a fail

The Pink boxes are Grade 3. DANGEROUS OR POTENTIALLY DANGEROUS FAULTS
1 of these is an instant fail.

Rules/Checks
Where 3 or more questions are not answered, or are incorrectly answered, a grade 2 fault should be
recorded.
Where a ‘Checks’ fault is incurred in relation to the Doors, Mirrors, Seat, Seat belt, or Head restraint adjustment, it should be recorded opposite Rules/Checks and is inclusive of any Oral Test faults.

Overtaking

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Please remember every aspect of the topics I cover in my Blogs can not be covered or addressed within a short Blog. What I give are some points.

When is it not permitted to overtake?
• When you cannot see the road for a good distance ahead. Eg. On approach to a humpback bridge, a dip or series of dips, a brow of a hill, approaching a junction, or any type of crossings.

(In other words, think of the safety of both you and other road users)


What is the procedure when someone overtakes you?

Hold your speed, don’t accelerate and keep as near to the left as safely possible.


Can I overtake on the left?

Yes but only in the below situations.

• When you intend to turn left and have signalled.
• When traffic in both lanes is moving slowly but the right lane is moving slower than traffic in the left lane.
• When the vehicle in front has signalled to turn right and has moved towards the centre of the road or into a right lane.


What checks must I do before overtaking?

• Check it is legal to overtake for example, obeying road linage and markings.
• Check that you have enough distance to overtake and get back on your own side safely and without cutting in on the vehicle you are overtaking.


Procedure for overtaking;

Check Road ahead is clear to overtake
Glance in left mirror
Glance in rear view mirror while signalling right
Glance in right mirror
Check blind spot (blind spot on right)

Move out, accelerate and overtake without delay. (when moving out to overtake veer gradually rather than swerve).
When you have overtaken the vehicle make sure you have given good clearance before moving back in.

Glance in rear view mirror
Glance in left side mirror
Check blind spot (blind spot on left)

Then veer back in gradually to your own side of the road and again without delay.


The procedure looks like a lot has to be done but all steps should run into each other smoothly and without delay.

When you do not intend to overtake the vehicle in front, hold back, leaving a sufficient space for following traffic to overtake you.

NOTE
Never follow a vehicle that is overtaking. Allow the vehicle to overtake and return to their own side before you overtake.

Never break the speed limit to overtake.