Dry Steering

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Dry Steering 
If your vehicle had the ability to feel and show emotions it would feel great pain and cringe when dry steering takes place. Dry steering mostly happens by turning the steering wheel, which turns the steer wheels while the vehicle is not moving. Situations where this can become a bad habit are, moving off from a stopped position, doing the turnabout and reverse manoeuvre.
Avoiding this is very simple; make sure you have the car moving before you turn the steering wheel. Even doing manoeuvres in tight spaces, use clutch control, bring the clutch up to just a little above biting point which will make the vehicle creep. Then steer quickly while you creep.  You will remember we would have touched on clutch control in October’s Blog on Getting the Bite. Also anyone who has power assisted steering will notice how much easier it is to steer when the car is slightly moving.

Tech;
There are many effects that dry steering would have on your vehicle if practised, none which are good. It puts a huge strain on the rack and pinion system, bearings, tie rods and pump. There is also a lot of unnecessary wear to the steer wheels.

Reverse Parallel Parking on the Left

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As with all my other Blog Spots, they are merely pointers on how to do things as I cannot possibly go into the detail that would be involved in an hours lesson. This is not included in the driving test in Ireland as yet but I think it is important to know how to do it.

Why is reverse parallel parking better than forward parallel parking?
Because on a vehicle with front wheel drive it is the front wheels that move, so there is more manoeuvrability reversing in. All that’s needed is to turn the steering to the left, the right and then straighten it. If you were to drive forward into the space a lot of driving back and forth would be necessary and chances are it would still not be correctly aligned with the kerb.

WHILE PRACTICING REVERSE PARALLEL PARKING;
I recommend practicing with just the car parked in front to begin with and as your skill improves and you begin to feel more confident, practice between two vehicles. Also make sure that the place you have chosen to practice is in a quiet area.

 Is the place you have chosen safe and legal?
 Make sure the space is at least one and a half to two lengths of your vehicle
 Signal left on approach to where you wish to park.
 Drive up along side the car that you intend to park behind.  Stop parallel to vehicle and leave 3 feet between your vehicle and the parked vehicle.
 Stop car at starting point and pull hand brake.

 Select reverse gear

 Look around again including blind spots on left and right side. Remember your observation must be done during the entire time you are doing the manoeuvre.

 Leave your left signal on while you do the manoeuvre

 As you reverse slowly and carefully turn the steering wheel to the left steadily as you reverse. This will need one full turn of the steering wheel.. (Don’t turn the steering to lock too quickly or your angle of turn will be out, which will mean there will be many unnecessary tries back and forth to get the angle of turn correct.)

 When your back wheel is about two and a half feet from the kerb start steering to the right again steer steadily as you reverse.

 When your front wheels are about two and a half feet from the kerb turn the steering wheel back to the left again which will straighten the wheels.

NOTE

How will I know if I have completed the parking correctly?
You will know that you have done the manoeuvre correctly when the front and back tyres are between half a foot and one foot from the kerb. When you start to practice between two vehicles make sure you are parked centrally between both vehicles.


What happens if another vehicle pulls up too close behind you?
You move on and look for another space. Most of the time, the reason a vehicle would pull up too close behind is that you did not signal in good time which would allow the driver following you to react and hold back.

Who has right of way when I stop to do the manoeuvre?
You must yield to other road users and wait until your way is clear and safe. This does not mean waiting until the road is clear of all other road users. Remember you are an obstruction on your side of the road until you park, so do so without any unnecessary delay as you would with the left corner reverse.

Can I position my left wing mirror down so that I can see where the back tyre in relation to the kerb?
Yes, however you must remember to re-position your mirror before driving off again.

Can I reverse Parallel Park on the right hand side of the road?
I would not recommend doing this. There are two many aspects in doing this that make it unsafe. Firstly you would have to go the opposite side of the road to take up your start position facing the oncoming traffic. Secondly at the time that you would want to get back out on the road your view is blocked as the driver seat is at the kerb side. Thirdly when you would manage to make proper observation coming out of the space you have to cross back to the opposite side of the road.

Getting the Bite

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You will often hear people talking about getting the bite. What do they mean?
Well, let’s keep it simple; to get the bite or biting point you only need the clutch.
Check your gear lever is in neutral / out of gear and that the handbrake is applied / pulled up. Start your engine and put your car into first gear.

Remember, it’s the clutch that makes the car move, not the accelerator. The accelerator only makes your car move faster. So let’s not hear the car roaring, OK?

Allow the clutch to raise little by little with your foot, until you feel the car wanting to move or pull away. (There are three little tell tale ways of telling when it’s at the bite. You may see the bonnet raise a little, you may hear the car beginning to grumble and you must feel the car wanting to pull away.) It very much depends on pedal height in a vehicle, as to whether or not you can keep your heel on the floor while raising the clutch.

At biting point, make sure to put your heel is on the floor of the car. It is easier holding your foot at the same point if you are grounded with your heel. Try holding your foot in the same place in mid air for a few seconds, it’s very difficult.

When you feel the biting point, keep your foot in this position and let down the handbrake. Your car will start to move, with a see saw movement press a little on your accelerator gently and slowly as you allow your clutch to come up gently and slowly. Imagine you’re swapping the clutch for the accelerator.

Problems that may occur;
Why did my car roll back when I let down the handbrake? It happened because you didn’t trust your foot to hold the biting point. You dipped your foot back down on the clutch, bringing the car below the bite while letting down the handbrake.

Why did my car cut out when I let the handbrake down? You brought the car above the biting point too fast. Allow the car to move smoothly before letting go the clutch completely.  This really only takes a couple of seconds.

Remember, have fun with this, using the bite you can yes, make the car move but also make the car hold an on the spot position without the handbrake. When you are practising make sure it is in a safe and legal place.

I have often been asked by pupils at the learner stage, why it is necessary to move off using the bite every time. It is very necessary for safety reasons when moving off and for moving off on hills. Have you ever been behind a car and thought it was going to roll back into you? Remember, your car cannot roll back if it is pulling to go forward. It is a physical impossibility.

For anyone who wants to know the technical side of this, Here is a very brief explanation. There is a bar connecting to the front wheel axle which is stationary and a bar attached to the clutch that rotates and moves forward when you are bringing the clutch up to biting point. The rotating bar is moving forward to meet the bar attached to the wheels. When the two meet, it's love at first sight.  The rotating bar makes the stationary bar rotate with it. This is the biting point which from then makes the wheels move.

Think of it in simple terms the engine is telling the wheels to move.

Stopping Distances

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Over the years the most common statement I’ve heard from pupils is:

“I’ve learned all the stopping distances on dry and wet roads just in case I’m asked in the driving test.” To me the correct reason for knowing this information has been lost all because to most of us, these are just another figure. I’m often asked, “How do I know for example what distance 169 metres is?

The reason for knowing this information should not be a means of being able to answer questions correctly in your driving test. These distances are given to keep everyone safe on the road where if the vehicle in front of you stopped suddenly that you would have enough distance between you and it to react and stop safely.

When during a lesson I’m talking to a pupil about stopping distances. I try to put it in terms that we all easily understand and give a visual way of seeing what that distance is.

We have all been stopped in a queue of traffic either as a passenger or the driver and so would know what 3 or 4 cars in a queue would look like. The average car is 4.5 meters in length.  The below guide should help get a handle on what the different stopping distances look like. Click on below charts for larger images.

Road Position

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Road position on the straight - The correct road position is less than one meter from the left hand side of the road (kerb or hard shoulder)

Road Position turning left from a two way street - Keep within a meter from your left both on approach and during your turn. Remember not to swing wide. The same applies when turning left from a one way street. Always indicate to other road users in good time what you’re doing before you do it

Road Position tuning right from a two way street - Do your mirror, signal and blindspot routine. Move over towards the center line on the road staying close to it without crossing it. If there is no center line painted on the road, imagine where the line would be.  When you have assessed a safe time to commit to turning right, drive forward until the front of your vehicle is at the center of the road you are turning into. This is the point to start to turn as it will line you up perfectly to be within a meter of the kerb or road side. Always look into the road you are turning into before you drive forward into the junction. Remember not to over shoot the turn which is known as a swan neck.

Road Position turning right from a one way street - Do your mirror, signal and blindspot routine. Move over towards the right hand side of the road and from this point carry out the same procedure as you would when turning into another road from a two way street.

Road Position in traffic lanes - stay in the center of your lane.

Zebra Crossing

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How to recognise a Zebra Crossing
Black and White striped road markings – flashing amber light on either side of the road. Also as zip zag lines before it. You will also see these zig zag lines on approach to other crossings as well.

How to approach a Zebra Crossing.
On approach to a zebra crossing the flashing amber lights are very noticeable. At this point you must check all mirrors and when you have accessed the following traffic adjust your speed safely for the crossing. Be on the look out for pedestrians that may be making their way towards the zebra crossing to cross. You may not need to stop. Predict what may happen when you reach the crossing. If somebody is about to cross stop your car at least a couple of meters before the first line you come to. This is a broken white line going across the road.

Why give so much room when stopping?
It can be very intimidating when a vehicle has stopped very closely to where you are about to cross.

Do I need to use the handbrake while waiting for someone to cross and if so why?
Yes always use the handbrake while waiting. The reason for this is if you were shunted by the following vehicle your feet would leave the pedals causing you to roll forward injuring somebody.

Can I wave to somebody to cross at the crossing?
No, never wave to pedestrians or other traffic. Why? Because if you were to wave, the oncoming traffic may read your signal to be for them, this would cause great mix up and create a dangerous situation. However you may try to make eye contact with the person about to cross. They are then in no doubt that you have seen them and are stopping to let them cross.

Can I drive on once the pedestrian has crossed passed my vehicle?
No, you must wait until the person has completed the crossing and has both feet on the footpath. Why? The person without thinking may change their mind and go back to the side where they started.

What should I do before proceeding to drive on?
Check mirrors – as to the whereabouts of following traffic. Side mirrors for cyclists and pedestrians. Check that everybody has completed their crossing. Release handbrake and proceed if safe to do so with caution.

Pedestrians

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This BlogSpot is only a brief outline on the topic of Pedestrians. The most important thing to remember is to use defensive driving (expecting the un-expected) at all times.

Eg.
What is that pedestrian going to do? Are they going to step off the path? Will they stay on the path? Will that child fall at the edge of the path? What to do, what to do.
When it comes to other road users there will be lots of different scenarios which may happen.

When approaching nearby pedestrians, slow down to a speed that will allow you to stop your vehicle quickly and safely. This may seem like the logical thing to do, but I’ve found that more often than not drivers don’t adjust their speed in time. Follow the usual routine with mirrors. When you are about to press your footbrake, glance in your rear view mirror to assess what’s happening behind you, Glance in your right and left wing (side) mirrors to check for cyclists coming up on your sides or pedestrians at path edge. This sounds like a lot of checks to do before dealing with the pedestrians up ahead but these can be done at a glance.

Now that you’ve checked your mirrors and adjusted your speed to suit the situation, you need to focus on what the pedestrian is going to do.

NEVER stop to let a pedestrian step off the footpath unless it is a place set for pedestrians to cross, for example, zebra crossings, pedestrian crossings etc.  Why? Because, you are putting them into a potentially dangerous situation, remember the oncoming vehicle may not have seen you stop for the pedestrian and may not even be aware of what’s happening on your side. And so, may hit the pedestrian with their vehicle.

However if the scenario is different and the pedestrian steps off the path and goes to cross in front of you, then of course you must stop and allow them to cross. In this case the pedestrian has put themselves in potential danger.

There is only one type of situation where you may stop to let a pedestrian cross the road in front of you, and this is in a one way street where you are the only vehicle to take into consideration what is happening. Although, you must do checks before you stop for the pedestrian. You must check that the following vehicle has sufficient time to react when you are stopping. Also do the usual observation around your vehicle. So, even in this situation there are dangers which can occur.

There is one other thing to remember, don’t ever beckon the pedestrian, you must let the decision to cross be theirs.

I would recommend at all times leaving the pedestrian on the path where they are safe, and let them judge for themselves when it seems safe to cross.

Hazards - Yikes!!

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The upside to the reason we drive, is to reach our destination in a faster time, and at a time that suits us. This allows us to make longer journeys than in the days of horses and carts. This, by the way was long before my time. We also have the comfort of suspension Air conditioning and everything to make our travelling enjoyable.
However it has its down side. Every time we get into our vehicles, we are putting ourselves in the path of potential danger through our own misjudgment.

You often hear people say, “The car/truck/he/she just came out in front of me. I hadn't time to do anything.” It is not possible, for traffic, pedestrians or cyclists to just come out in front of you, if you have been observing and had been scanning the road ahead correctly for what may happen.

Even if we have not been the cause of the initial misjudgment, we should have been alert to what the person might or might not do and been prepared for either. . Talk yourself through every situation out loud, like a running commentary on what's happening and what you're how you are going to deal with the situation.  I do this with many of my students as it is good practice which forms a good habit in training our mind to behave in a certain way when driving. A safe way, I call it the “what if”.

An example of this unusual technique is, on approach to a sharp bend in the road, you would say. “Around this bend there may be a traffic queue, a pedestrian about to cross, something parked on the bend or an approaching vehicle may take the bend wide.” Solution: Take care. This does not mean driving at snail’s pace, but at a speed that you could can stop safely.

Hazards will only become dangerous through our own misjudgment. I include myself in this. Just because we are driving instructors does not make us infallible and calling it wrong at times. . We all have moments where our concentration lapses and are caught off guard.

One hazard that I constantly see is when a car is parallel parking and the following vehicle doesn't heed the indicator. When they finally notice what is happening, they don’t look to see if the person parking can make it in one manoeuvre or not. So they keep creeping forward, leaving the person parking no option but to stop what they are doing, and they find themselves in a situation where they can neither reverse or go forward.

It soon becomes a traffic jam with everyone involved becoming angry as they in turn had also moved forward. This leaves a situation where nobody can move until somebody at the back reverses. This situation It could have been avoided with the “the “What If” technique. Eg. What if the person can’t make it in one manoeuvre. I’ll give them enough space to negotiate into their position.

Have fun with it make it habit, start as a passenger. Look to see what is happening and what might. but always keep alert and aware.

Gears

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There is a very good reason why I am Blogging about Gears. Many people have come to me with different gear habits, a lot of which are incorrect. I’m including questions that pop up regularly when people come to me first.

Below are things that can be done but, gears are there for a reason as each gear has an appropriate speed, use the gears correctly. Change down at appropriate speeds. It takes practice to achieve this skill. I have seen many arguments between drivers and the gear leavers.  And heard sounds of grinding and crunching of the gear box.  Gear changing when done correctly should be smooth and seamless as opposed to jerking and revving.

Q. Can I stop in fourth gear
A. No. This practice should only be done if you happen to be in fourth gear and need to do an emergency stop. All rules regarding mirrors and gears must be ignored when stopping in an emergency.

Q. Can I block change (skip gears) going from 4th to 2nd?
A. Yes, it is perfectly safe to change from 4th to 2nd gear. However, appropriate braking must be done before changing to 2nd gear. When done correctly, you should not be able to tell you have changed gear.

Why does the car jerk when I'm changing down gear?
This will happen when your vehicle is moving too fast for the gear you are changing down to.  To correct this you must brake more before changing down.  Many people go straight to the clutch when changing down gear which is incorrect.  You must take the speed out of the car first bringing it to the correct speed for the gear you are going to select and only then do you go for the clutch and select the lower gear.

Why does the car jerk when I'm changing up in gear?
This will happen when your foot goes on the accelerator too heavily.  Remember you only want to touch the accelerator to hold the speed you have built up before you changed up the gear.

Q. Can I block change from other gears?
A.  You can go from 3rd to 1st and this, is actually easier to show someone rather than to explain in text form.  This is a good way of getting out of the habit of coasting also. Remember there is only one way to do this correctly – it should only be done just before bringing your vehicle to a halt.  As you near the point where you have to stop and are in 3rd gear just start braking and as you reach your stop press down on the clutch and go to 1st but keep your foot down on the clutch as you continue to brake.  However, it is best practice use your gears and to go to 2nd gear when you have the time and distance to do so.  (As I covered in my Blog on Coasting, there is no such thing as coasting in 1st gear or reverse as the speed of 1st and reverse although slow can be too fast when manoeuvring around tight space)

Key Words to gear changing: Smooth and Seamless

How to reverse into a parking bay

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Reversing into a parking bay on the left There are a couple of methods to do this procedure. (As with any manoeuvre, constant observation throughout is needed)

Method A 

Indicate left and use mirrors as you would when stopping on the left. Position your vehicle about two metres out from the parking spaces on your left Drive past the parking bay you intend to use (Bay 1) so that the back of your car is opposite the centre of Bay 2. Another view point that you can use is, make sure your left side mirror is opposite the centre of Bay 3.

Preparation – Choose reverse gear
Observation – Check your way is clear via mirrors, blindspots and looking around.
Manoeuvre - Move vehicle slowly and bring steering quickly to left lock. When you are in the opening of the space, this is the time to start to straighten the steering. Check around constantly as you manoeuvre back into the space referring to side mirrors to accurately position your vehicle in the centre of the bay.

(To park in a Bay on the right, all the above are the same except rather than indicating left you must indicate right as you need to position your vehicle about two metres from the spaces on your right. Remember you to make sure your way is clear before moving over to the right.)


Method B 

Indicate left to let following traffic know that you intend to park.
Stop your vehicle outside the opening of the Bay you intend to park in. Signal right and do observation and mirrors as you would any time you move off. 

Move vehicle slowly and steer quickly locking to the right. Straighten just before stopping as you would doing a turnabout Steer to the left to bring vehicle back into your bay while referring to side mirrors for accurate parking in the centre of the space. Check around constantly as you go.

NOTE
For all manoeuvres such as the corner reverse, the turnabout, parallel parking or bay parking, remember other traffic has right of way and you are the obstruction so make sure your way is clear before you start. 

Why is it better to reverse into a parking space?
With front wheel drive vehicles the manoeuvrability is with the wheels at the front so reversing makes for accurate parking with less to-ing and fro-ing to position the vehicle. Plus if you drive into a space you will be reversing out into one way traffic or two-way traffic. For visibility it is much safer to drive out rather than reverse. If you have not centred your vehicle in the space, don’t just abandon it correct it.

The Turnabout - I'm facing the wrong way

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The Turn About or what used be called the three point turn, is a manoeuvre required in the driving test. Pupils have asked me what is the point of it and when would you use it. It is good to know how to handle your car going forward, backwards and doing a turn about. If you found yourself in a cul-de-sac wouldn’t it be great to know how to turn round safely. Firstly ask yourself, is where you intend doing the turn about safe and legal?

The key to doing the turnabout is to keep your speed slow and steer briskly. To keep your vehicle moving slowly this will involve clutch control. (Hold your foot on clutch just above the bite to make it move. If you want the vehicle to slow dip your foot briefly back down towards the floor on the clutch.) I can hear you say, keeping your foot on the clutch is coasting. Remember there is no such thing as coasting in 1st gear or reverse. The only time you need to signal during the manoeuvre is when signalling right as you leave the kerb to start the turnabout.

Before starting the turnabout it is important that you wait until the road is clear in both directions. Unlike the corner reverse where you can stop and give way to other road users, during the turnabout you are blocking the way of other traffic. Always give way to pedestrians who are nearby as in stopping what you are doing until they are a safe distance away.

Do your GOSH routine Gear, Observation, Signal, Handbrake & check your Blind Spot.

Move forward slowly turning your steering wheel briskly to the right, until you cannot turn it anymore.

When you are about a meter from the other side of the road, turn your steering back to the left as you continue to move forward. (This gives you a head start on the steering when you go into reverse.)

Look around you

Apply the handbrake if necessary, for example if the camber is significant. (See Camber on my Facebook Page Q & A Nov 30th, 2010)

Look around you

Put car in reverse gear move slowly and steer briskly to the left as far as it will go.

Look around you

When you’ve reached about a meter from the road edge behind you, turn your steering back to the right as you continue to reverse.
Apply handbrake if necessary.

Look around you

Put car in 1st gear and move forward slowly while steering briskly to the right and bring the car to a parked position on the left hand side of the road. This will complete the turnabout in three moves, but remember it is not necessary to complete the manoeuvre in three moves. It may take five or even seven depending on the size of vehicle and width of road.

Coasting in a vehicle

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Coasting, what is it?
Most people have heard of the term coasting, but some are unsure as to what it means. Coasting happens when the clutch is fully depressed (pushed down to the floor) while the car is moving. It becomes a bad habit for a lot of learner drivers. Coasting can happen when bringing the vehicle to a stop, before changing gear, after changing gear and driving in around small areas, such as car parks and more dangerously when cornering.

When you coast you are not in control of the vehicle, which is very dangerous. You are free wheeling, having stopped all contact between the engine and the wheels. Think back to the last time you free wheeled down hill on a bicycle. What happened? The bicycle picked up speed. If you were to drive down hill with your foot on the clutch the same thing would happen, you’d pick up speed. A low gear going down hill will keep the vehicle in check and prevent it from picking up speed, but if you were to put your foot on the clutch you’re are dis-engaging the gear and free wheeling.

Remember the clutch has three jobs to do
1. It makes the car move
2. It’s used to change gear.
3. It keeps the engine running when stopping in gear.


Tell tale signs that you coast.
Do you go for the clutch before the brake when bringing the vehicle to a stop?
Solution: Brake first then clutch just before you stop to prevent car from stalling.

When changing down gear are you on the clutch for a few seconds before selecting your gear?
Solution: Brake sufficiently for the gear selected, then clutch and change gear.

When you have just finished changing down gear is it more than 3 seconds before you release the clutch?
Solution: If you have braked sufficiently before you change your gear there is no need to linger long on the clutch.

Are you on the clutch constantly while going around an area like a car park?
Solution: Your vehicle can move extremely slowly in second gear it’s just a bad habit pressing on the clutch when moving. If you feel you will need to drive too slowly for second gear, brake sufficiently and then press the clutch and change to first gear for to do a creeping speed.

There are two exceptions, holding your foot on the clutch in first gear and reverse. These are not considered as coasting and come under the heading clutch control, which allows you to adjust the speed of your vehicle instantly.  For instance creeping along in slow moving traffic or reversing into a parking space.

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Motorway Driving

As with all my BlogSpots my tips do not cover every detail on the topic just the basics.  For example with this Blog I do not mention tunnels, toll plazas, breakdowns etc.

Who can not drive on the Motorway? 

L Drivers, vehicles that are slow and cannot exceed 50 km/h, vehicles under 50 cc, cyclists, pedestrians, invalid carriages – motorised wheelchairs and animals.

Is your vehicle fit for the motorway?

Check your fuel, water and coolant level.  Check tyre pressure and be sure that your vehicle is capable of doing the motorway speed.  Contrary to popular belief extra tyre pressure is not needed to drive on the motorway.

Plan your route.

Get your map out and find out what your route numbers are.  Find the the location of rest areas, service areas and lay-bys along your journey.  At the bottom of all maps there is a box which is called the Map Key.  This will let you know what each symbol means on the map.   For example, P = lay-bys (lay-bys will not have any facilities other than to park up safely), A blue line = Motorway, A green line = Dual carriageway etc.

What is the speed limit on the motorway?

120 km/h unless road markings or road signage state otherwise.

Joining the Motorway.

Entry to Motorway

Give way to traffic already on the motorway.  Make sure you build up your speed sufficiently while driving in the acceleration lane before you merge with the motorway traffic.  Signal right letting other traffic know of your intentions. 

The continuation of the acceleration lane is called a slip road/merging lane which is separated from the motorway by hatched markings (painted markings which separate traffic lanes)  Avoid crossing the continuous white line to merge with the motorway traffic.  Do mirror and blind spot checks as you look for a suitable gap to join the other traffic.

Once you are on the motorway
Continue driving straight ahead and never reverse or do a U turn.  Do not stop on the hard shoulder unless in the case of an emergency, directed by a guard or directed by emergency services.

What lane should I be in?

Lane 1 – (inside or left lane)  This is where you should always drive unless you are overtaking

Lane 2 – (centre lane)  Use this lane when overtaking.  Also it makes for safer driving if you can enter this lane safely when approaching a slip road where traffic will be merging from your left to join the motorway.

Lane 3 – (outside or right lane)  This lane should only be used if Lane 1 & 2 are moving queues and you need to overtake making room for merging traffic.

Always make your way back to Lane 1 allowing faster traffic from behind to overtake.

Reading the information signs on route along the motorway

Along the way you will see Motorway INFORMATION  SIGNS (blue rectangular signs with white letters) 

On these signs you will be given the number of the next exit (black square with white number) this is placed on the top left corner of the information sign.

The next piece of information on the sign is the number of the diverging lane.  This number will have an R before it for example R316

Another piece of information it gives is the number of the stretch of motorway ahead.  This number will always have the letter M before it.  For example M9

Leaving the motorway.

Know what exit you want to take.  If you pass your exit accidently continue on to the next exit.  On approach to your exit you will see three countdown markers. 

300 metres  -  200 metres  -  100 metres to next exit

Signal left but it is very important that you DO NOT reduce speed until you are in the deceleration lane as this would put following traffic in great danger.  Once in this lane reduce speed and look out for the new speed limit.

End of Motorway

NOTE:

Signals, mirrors and blind spots must be checked when lane changing as you would do with any change in direction.  Be alert and read the road well ahead.

On the day of your driving test

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Many of us can be nervous going into a test situation and it is no different for the driving test. Rather than saying to yourself “I have to pass this test”, say to yourself “This is my opportunity to prove that I am a confident and competent driver”.  Remember you are not there to prove that you are a perfect driver ... there is no such thing as a perfect driver.

Remember Examiners realise that test applicants may be nervous and part of their job is to do all that they can to help the pupil feel at ease. However do not take it personally that Examiner will not chat to you during your test. The reason for this is that it may influence the marking of the test.

Your entire test takes between 30 – 40 mins and the distance you will cover is 8 – 10km. I try to make sure a pupil has had at least three mock tests before the day of their test. Setting the tone as if it were the real driving test helps when it comes to the day of your test. It can help alleviate some nerves because you are familiar with how the test will be conducted.


ON THE DAY OF YOUR TEST:

Arrive at the test centre 10 – 15 mins early with your Learner Permit and your test confirmation letter.  Take a seat in the waiting area for your name to be called.

When your name is called you will be guided to the Examiners office. The Examiner will ask to see your Learner Permit to make sure that it is indeed yours, it’s valid and it has the correct category of vehicle for which you’ll be doing the test in.

You will be asked to read and sign a document stating that you are covered on the insurance of the vehicle that you will be using for your test and that the same vehicle is roadworthy. The Examiner will ask you theory questions and road signs. All of these are in your rules of the road book and driver theory book.

When back outside at your vehicle, you will be asked to open the bonnet. Below are some things you may be asked to locate. Also you may be asked how to check their levels and how to top them up. Your instructor will have covered this many times with you.  If you cannot locate where the steering fluid is your vehicle may be (EPAS)  Electrically Power Assisted Steering.

Brake Fluid
Power Steering Fluid
Engine Oil
Water (windscreen washer)
Coolant

The Examiner will then ask you to sit into your car as he/she checks that your discs are in date and details are correct on them. Other checks will be that you are displaying L plates on the front and rear of your vehicle and that they are the correct size, your tyre tread depth is above minimum and the general road worthiness of the vehicle. He/She will check your indicators and brake lights are working.  Many newer vehicles have a centre brake light as well as the left and right brake lights.  Even if the centre brake light bulb has blown on your way to the test centre, you will still be allowed sit your test as it is only necessary to have the left and right brake lights working.  Carry spare bulbs for all your car lights so you will never be stuck and ask your local mechanic to show you how to change them if unsure.  Always be familiar with the vehicle you are about to drive.

When the Examiner sits into the car he/she will ask a few questions on the controls. When asked about these things, your Examiner will expect you to answer without hesitation. They may be needed while out driving and this would not be the time for fumbling while your attention should be on the road ahead. Below are a few examples of questions that may be asked.

Where are your window wipers?
How would you demist your front, rear and side windows?
How and when to use the temperature controls?
What is the difference between the air flow controllers?
Where is the window washer for front window and rear window?
Where are the fog lights?
How do you turn on the air conditioning?
Where are you hazard lights?

From that point on your test is on your driving ability and how you put into practice the theory you know. Below you will see a Test Report Form which will show you what categories are covered during the test.

Gradings:
The Green boxes are Grade 1. MINOR FAULTS
These are minor faults and have no affect on your test.

The Blue boxes are Grade 2. MORE SERIOUS FAULTS
9 or more it is a fail.
6 in one category eg: Position it is a fail.
4 for the same fault eg: Position - position turning right it is a fail

The Pink boxes are Grade 3. DANGEROUS OR POTENTIALLY DANGEROUS FAULTS
1 of these is an instant fail.

Rules/Checks
Where 3 or more questions are not answered, or are incorrectly answered, a grade 2 fault should be
recorded.
Where a ‘Checks’ fault is incurred in relation to the Doors, Mirrors, Seat, Seat belt, or Head restraint adjustment, it should be recorded opposite Rules/Checks and is inclusive of any Oral Test faults.

Overtaking

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Please remember every aspect of the topics I cover in my Blogs can not be covered or addressed within a short Blog. What I give are some points.

When is it not permitted to overtake?
• When you cannot see the road for a good distance ahead. Eg. On approach to a humpback bridge, a dip or series of dips, a brow of a hill, approaching a junction, or any type of crossings.

(In other words, think of the safety of both you and other road users)


What is the procedure when someone overtakes you?

Hold your speed, don’t accelerate and keep as near to the left as safely possible.


Can I overtake on the left?

Yes but only in the below situations.

• When you intend to turn left and have signalled.
• When traffic in both lanes is moving slowly but the right lane is moving slower than traffic in the left lane.
• When the vehicle in front has signalled to turn right and has moved towards the centre of the road or into a right lane.


What checks must I do before overtaking?

• Check it is legal to overtake for example, obeying road linage and markings.
• Check that you have enough distance to overtake and get back on your own side safely and without cutting in on the vehicle you are overtaking.


Procedure for overtaking;

Check Road ahead is clear to overtake
Glance in left mirror
Glance in rear view mirror while signalling right
Glance in right mirror
Check blind spot (blind spot on right)

Move out, accelerate and overtake without delay. (when moving out to overtake veer gradually rather than swerve).
When you have overtaken the vehicle make sure you have given good clearance before moving back in.

Glance in rear view mirror
Glance in left side mirror
Check blind spot (blind spot on left)

Then veer back in gradually to your own side of the road and again without delay.


The procedure looks like a lot has to be done but all steps should run into each other smoothly and without delay.

When you do not intend to overtake the vehicle in front, hold back, leaving a sufficient space for following traffic to overtake you.

NOTE
Never follow a vehicle that is overtaking. Allow the vehicle to overtake and return to their own side before you overtake.

Never break the speed limit to overtake.

Driving At Night

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Checks:

• Check all bulbs are working
• Check reflectors and number plates are clean
• Check windows are not smeared, as this can make a huge difference between being able to see and not when the lights of an oncoming vehicle shine on your windscreen.
• Check headlights are adjusted properly; if they are aligned to high they can dazzle oncoming traffic which is potentially dangerous.


Driving during dusk

I recommend using headlights during dusk when driving on country roads. Why? When you use your dipped lights during dusk it can create shadows in the hedgerow which can give an untrue view of the roadside. ALWAYS DIP YOUR LIGHTS WHEN MEETING ONCOMING TRAFFIC


Driving in lit up areas such as town/city

Use dipped headlights at all times in lit up areas.


QUESTION

At what stage should I dip my headlights when traffic is oncoming?

Make it your purpose that you don’t dazzle the oncoming driver with your lights. On a country road where there are corners and bends, dip your lights when you see the lights of the oncoming vehicle about to come around the corner. This means that neither of you will be dazzled even momentarily. On a straight road you need to dip your lights when you see the car approaching just before you yourself would become dazzled.


Dazzled by oncoming traffic

Look slightly down and to the left towards the verge of the road if you find you are being dazzled by oncoming traffic. NEVER flash your headlights at the other driver to make them dip their headlights as this can cause a very dangerous situation.


Dazzled by following traffic in rear view mirror.

When you are finding it difficult to see with lights of following traffic shining directly to your rear view mirror and to your eyes. Adjust to night time mode. Night time mode is found on your rear view mirror. It is a little lever or switch which can be found usually directly under the rear view mirror.

How does it work?

When you switch to night time mode, it simply reflects what is in the rear view mirror up onto the ceiling which dulls the lights and images when you look in the mirror. This makes it possible to see behind safely and allows you to drive without being dazzled.


Dazzled by lights from following traffic shining in side mirrors

Pull over somewhere safe and slightly adjust your mirrors for the journey.


IMPORTANT:

Always drive at a speed that you can stop within the distance that your lights show.

One Way Streets

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What is a one way street?

A one way street is a street on which vehicle traffic is only permitted to go in one direction.


How would I recognise a one way street?

There are signs and road markings to let you know;
You may see a round blue sign with a white arrow pointing upwards on it. (Regulatory Sign) This sign means STRAIGHT AHEAD ONLY.

Another sign which you may see is again a Regulatory Sign. It is a round white sign with a red border showing a straight ahead black arrow crossed out with a red line through it. This sign means NO ENTRY.

Road markings such as ONE WAY OR NO ENTRY may be present.

Road linage such as a continuous white line across the road with a broken white line beside it will be seen.


How do I know from the road lines whether or not I can enter it or not?

You may only enter the street if the white line nearest you is broken.

Stopping on the Left Hand Side

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Stopping on the left has three steps involved:

1. Make sure the place where you intend to stop is safe and legal.
2. Use your MSPSL procedure as you bring the vehicle to a controlled stop close to and parallel with the left kerb.
3. Make sure your vehicle is secure after stopping


1. Is it safe and is it legal? Eg. Make sure it’s not near a bend, the brow of a hill, blocking an entrance, close to a junction etc.

2. Using the MSPSL routine.
Mirrors - Since we are moving over to the left, you start with your right wing mirror, rear view then left mirror.

Signal – Indicate left

Position – Steer towards the left.

Speed – adjust your speed to control positioning the car close to the kerb

Look – continue to make good observation around your vehicle as you bring it to a hault.

3. Put gear in neutral, apply parking/hand brake.

Moving Off

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Here is a brief explanation of moving off as you’ll understand an entire lesson cannot realistically be covered in a Blog.

When moving off there is a procedure which has a routine called GOSH
G Gear Select 1st gear
O Observation Glance around your vehicle (360° glance) going from left side to right
S Signal Indicate right
H Handbrake & Blindspot The very last thing you do before moving off is check your right blindspot. (See September Blog on Observation) and release handbrake.

Footnote on Observation
It is important to remember when doing your observation that you do not take too much time looking in one place. By the time you get around to looking on your right something may have happened on your left. Remember we have peripheral vision so you can make good observation in a short time. You’re checking to make sure that there are no pedestrians, traffic, obstacles or hazards which make it unsafe to move off.

Footnote on Handbrake
Make sure you have the biting point before you release your parking brake/handbrake (See October Blog on The Bite)

EDT Lessons

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Many people still have queries with regard to the new EDT Lessons.  I hope this BlogSpot helps. Here are some questions I have been asked regularly. Please phone or e mail me with any questions you may have. I will happy to help.

Is there a form that I get to sign in order to backdate lessons already taken?
No. The new EDT lessons only apply to people who have received their very first learner permit on or after the 4th April 2011.

Can every driving instructor give these EDT lessons?
Registered and approved driving instructors were given an option before the programme was rolled out, as to whether to cover the new EDT programme or continue to give lessons as they had been before.  However, anyone who as I mentioned above has received their very first learner permit on or after 4th April, 2011 must do the EDT programme. So, it is necessary to choose an instructor who is set up to do this programme to ensure that you may sit your driving test.

What is the difference between the EDT lessons and the driving lessons which were given before this new system?
The new programme only covers areas that statistics show are high risk where most collisions occur and does not bring a student from A-Z with what is needed to sit the driving test, for example the turnabout and reverse are not included in the EDT programme.  With the 'old' for want of a better word, lessons. a student could start a first lesson having never sat behind the wheel before.

With the new programme before taking EDT lesson 1, a student must familiarise themselves with, the rules of the road, safety checks.  Know how to use the primary controls such as steering wheel and brakes.  Know how to use the secondary controls such as lights and wipers.  A student must have practised moving off, stopping and driving in safe and quiet conditions for at least three hours.  So, you can see already that there is a lot of preparation to be done by a student before the first lesson should be done.  It is also important where possible that a student practises for three hours in preparation before each of the 12 EDT lessons, practising what had been covered in the previous lesson.

The three hours practise may be done with a Sponsor (someone that you are comfortable with and has held a full drivers licence for at least two years), in fact I recommend this or they may get their practice with their driving instructor or a combination of both.  It is easier on the pocket if you can practice before the first EDT and between EDT lessons with your Sponsor.

Practise is the key.  The lesson time can only show a student the how, why and when and only has a small amount of time to practise but, it's the practise outside of the lesson that makes the big difference on how fast you progress throughout the lessons and will ensure that you are prepared for the next stage involved in learning to drive.  

Remember, it's all about learning in steps.  You cannot be taught how to spell words without first having learned and practised the alphabet.  You cannot be given an essay to write until you have learned and practised the basic skills of writing. And so it is with driving, you cannot be taught more complex driving skills until you have practised what is necessary to get you to that next stage.  Practise, practise, practise.  :)